CRAFTS OF INDIA / JAMDANI / TYPES OF TANGIL
Tangail is the product of the Pit loom throw shuttle and fly shuttle re-used to manufacture the cheaper quality Tangil . A good weaver today can turn out two saris a day though the fine and complicated saris may take whole day or more to complete famous. Bengali cotton saris are mostly classified into three major divisions
1.Ordinary striped or checked tangail are the cheapest
2.ButidarTangil copy of the Jamdani is with angular designs.
3.BorderedTangi NakshaTangai are made on the Jacquard looms.
Earlier silk was used for the reshmi borders but these days silk; has been replaced to rayon. For Naksha saris any number of designs can be used. The designs are mostly geometrical they are highly stylised flowers leaves, the tree of life etc. Butidars are mostly woven on light cream background and bright and soft colours are, used for the butties. The simple striped or checked saris have no decorative designs, sometimes-high light with gold and silver threads.
Tangil was originally' woven on silk warp in Bangladesh but cotton-weft or fillers were used. These saris were called ‘ Begam Bahar’, there after due to scarcity of silk yarns the weavers tried to utilize local cotton yarn for both the warp and weft once they settled in West Bengal partition. Earlier the process was very complicated, the spinning of the yarn was with a takli or a spindle instead of a spinning wheel.
Finishing is done in a specific manner. While weaving the sizing mixture is applied directly with hand Kali made with rice and lime as soon as one-meter cloth is woven. This process is continued after every meter. The sari becomes; stiff like paper, after the sari is woven it is folded in a characteristic manner and tied with a piece of cloth known as "Swatch.
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