Tussar Silk|Weaving

The interstices or crossing of the threads determines the characteristic of the weave.

The yarn count and number of warp and filling yarns to the square inch determine the closeness or looseness of a weave.

Woven fabrics may also be varied by the proportion of warp yarns to filling yarns. Some effects are achieved by the selection of yarns or by the combination of yarns.

There are three basic weaves - the plain weave, the satin weave and the twill weave. Sometimes, an arrangement is also incorporated, for weaving a pattern or design, within a main weave, known as, jacquard.

Weaving involves the following basic stages before the completed fabric is obtained.

The selection of yarn for the fabric which could be natural fibres like cotton, jute, silk or artificial like georgette, chiffon, polyester, nylon etc. or blends of both types.

The spinning of yarn to make it into thread needed for the weaving. Spinning could involve rolling or twisting of more than one yarn fibre into a single thread for strength.

The separation of the thread, which is by reeling it onto a frame for the warp, and onto small reels or shuttles or bobbins for the weft to interlace with the warp threads for the weave.

The weaving process, for the movement of the threads, across and forth, for completing the fabric.

Dyeing has now become an integral part of the weaving process since it is very rare for plain threads to be simply woven without any colouring done. Dyeing of threads is mostly done prior to the weave though you could have the woven fabric dyed after weaving too. Colours chosen are natural vegetable and organic dyes or chemical dyes, though the latter is mostly used nowadays on account of being cheaper and more easily available.

The saree is a traditional Indian fabric preferred by most women in India and is a national heritage. It is made by weaving either by traditional methods or by modern looms. There are very many centres for the weaving of ethnic sarees across India. Kanjivaram, Dharmavaram, Arani, Mysore, Bangalore, Coimbatore, Madurai, Narayanpet, Uppada, Gadwal, Venkatagiri, Pochampally, Rasipuram, Mangalagiri, Chettinad, Banaras, Kota, Bhagalpur, Sambalpur, Bomkai, Chanderi, Maheshwar, Rajkot, Aurangabad, Lucknow, Murshidabad, Baluchar, are well known for their unique weaves. There are other places also in Bengal, Odisha, Kashmir, Punjab, Chattisgarh, Meghalaya, Nagaland, Assam which boast of skill and finesse when it comes to traditional varieties in fabrics in silk, cotton, sico, jute, linen, etc.

Plain Weave – Plain weave is the most basic of the three types. When weaving plain weave, the warp and weft are aligned which forms a simple criss-cross pattern. Each weft thread crosses the warp threads by going alternately, first over one warp, then under the next and so on. The next weft goes under the warp that the neighboring weft went over, and again so on.

Twill - A type of textile weave that has a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs. This technique is done when the weft thread crosses over one or more warp threads and then under two or more warp threads and so on. Next weft does the same but some warps later so it creates the characteristic diagonal pattern. Twill has different front and back sides which are called “technical face” and “technical back”.

Satin - A weave that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back. It is a warp-faced weaving technique in which warp yarns are "floated" over weft yarns, which means that warp goes over much more wefts than in twill which makes its surface very soft.

The Plain weave that is also called Tabby Weave is the simplest and most common of the three basic textile weaves. Made by passing each filling (weft) yarn over and under each warp yarn, with each row alternating, a lot of intersections are produced. Since the warp and weft threads cross at right angles, they are aligned to form a simple criss-cross pattern.

Plain-weave fabrics that are not printed or given a surface finish have no right or wrong side. They do not ravel easily but tend to wrinkle and have less absorbency than other weaves.

The visual effect of plain weave may be varied by combining yarns of different origins, thickness, texture, twist, or colour. Fabrics range in weight from sheer to heavy and include such types as organdy, muslin, taffeta, shantung, canvas, and tweed.

Examples of fabrics made in plain weave include muslin and taffeta.

The plain weave is essentially strong and hard-wearing, and is used for fashion and furnishing fabrics.

Balanced plain weaves are fabrics in which the warp and weft are made of threads of the same weight (size) and the same number of ends per inch as picks per inch.

Basket weave is a variation of plain weave in which two or more threads are bundled and then woven as one in the warp or weft, or both.

A balanced plain weave can be identified by its checkerboard-like appearance. It is also known as one-up-one-down weave or over and under pattern. Examples of fabric with plain weave are chiffon, organza, percale and taffeta.

Plain Weaves have a host of end uses that range from heavy and coarse canvas and blankets made of thick yarns to the lightest and finest cambric and muslins made in extremely fine yarns. The Plain weave also finds extensive use in the making of blankets, canvas, dhothis, sarees, shirting, suiting, etc.

Plain Weave is one of the most fundamental fabric weaves available. Most other types of weave are just variations of the plain weave. Plain weave is created using warp threads and a weft thread. The warp threads are spaced out evenly and held down at either end by a loom. The weft yarn is then interwoven between these warp yarns. The weave pattern for plain weave is ‘One under one over.’ This means that the weft goes over one warp yarn and under the next. This repeats until the whole fabric is done.

Plain weave can be recognized by its checkerboard effect. This is usually a balanced weave which means that yarns of the same weight, not necessarily the same yarns are used for both the warp and weft, creating a fabric with a uniform appearance and the same properties in the warp and weft yarns. Plain weave can be woven with different colours to create colour woven fabrics, such as striped fabrics and they can be printed or have other finishes applied to them.

Plain weave fabrics can be anything form heavyweight to sheer, depending on the types of yarns used and the tightness of the weave. Examples of fabrics made using a plain weave are Taffeta, Organza, Chiffon, Canvas, Tweed and Muslim. All of these fabrics are very different in terms of weight and appearance but are all made using the same weave.

No right or wrong side

No lengthwise of crosswise stretch, only stretch is on the bias

Doesn’t fray as easily as other weaves

Creases easily

Less absorbent than other weaves

Fabrics range in weight from sheer to heavy, depending on the yarns used

Versatile

Flexible

Tightest weave structure

Strong

Hard-wearing

Durable

Some of the plain woven fabrics are available in the market under the following names.

Sheeting - medium to heavy weight plain weave fabric. It is mostly used for upholstery, bed covers etc.

Lawn - Light, thin fabric, made slightly stiff and crease-resistant by finishing. It is used in making dresses, blouses and handkerchiefs.

Muslin - light weight to medium weight stiff, unbleached and unfinished plain woven cloth. It is used in making designer sample garments. Finished muslins are used in sheets, furnishing etc.

Poplin - medium plain weave fabric having finer warp and thick weft. It is used in making petticoats, pyjamas, blouses etc.

Canvas - heavy weight densely woven plain grey (unfinished) fabric. It is used in making working cloth, jump suits and industrial clothes.

Casement - plain weave cloth with lesser twist in warp and weft. It is used in making furnishing, embroidery work, table linen etc.

Organdy - light weight, crisp, sheer, shining white cotton fabric, which is produced by using fine (thin) warp and weft yarn. It is given a special chemical finish. It is used in making dress materials.

Cambric - soft, smooth closely woven (compact) fabric, which is given a finish on the upper surface of the fabric to give a glazed (shining) effect. It is used in making dress materials, children’s dresses, table linen etc.

Chambray - plain, medium to heavy weight, woven fabric with coloured warp and white weft. It can be in plain, strips or check designs. It is used in making, work suits, overalls, men’s suits etc.

Gingham - medium to light weight plain weave fabric of open texture having different coloured warps and wefts. They vary in qualities according to the yarn used, fastness of colour, weaves and weight. They are used for making house dresses, aprons, curtains etc.

Voile - sheer light-weight fabric, highly twisted, using double fine combed yarn in warp and weft. This gives a crisp body and good draping quality. It is used in making blouses, bedspreads, summer dresses, children’s wear etc.

Georgette - sheer light-weight fabric with double yarn, highly twisted in S and Z directions, in warp and weft. It gives a sand-like rough appearance on the surface of the fabric. It is used in making saris and women’s wear.

Rubia - highly twisted, using double fine yarn warp and weft fabric, plain textured (appearance) which gives a transparent look. It is used in making saris and blouses.