EMBROIDERIES OF INDIA / PATOLA WORK / INTRODUCTION
What is Patola weaving?
Patola Weaving is a traditional method practiced in Gujarat, where weaving is done through logical calculations, bringing about stunningly exquisite outcomes in design and pattern.
The Patola weave on sarees
There are two types of patola depending upon the pattern. The Rajkot Patola which is of single ikkat weave and the double ikkat Patan Patola.Patola fabrics are renowned for their colorful diversity and geometrical style. To create a patola fabric, both the warp and weft threads are tie-dyed according to the desired pattern on the final woven fabric. In traditional single ikat, only one of them is dyed. The bundles of thread are knotted before being dyed, so that at the points where the bundles are tied, the thread resists the color. The weaving is done on traditional hand looms, and vegetable dyes are traditionally used. Patola weaves generally have motifs like animals, flowers, human figures and birds in the basic design. Current trends have geometrical designs.
Single versus double ikkat Patola weave
Single ikkat fabrics have adornments of kundan work and zardozi in addition. The fabric texture tends to be heavy with the ornate work done on it. Borders are adorned with zari and patch borders with warm colors and rich motifs. The double ikkat fabrics generally have motifs of parrots, flowers, elephants and dancing figures, geometric and floral designs. Fabrics with plain dark colored body and motifs of women and birds are treated as special variety of Patola. Nowadays prints of traditional patola patterns are used as prints on designer silk and art silk sarees.