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CRAFTS OF INDIA / PAITHANI / THREADS PROCESSED
PAITHANI
Various threads processed

- Raw silk is cleansed with caustic soda, dyed in the requisite shades, the threads are carefully separated.

- Gold threads are used in double and one of the finest varieties so much so that the closely woven surface looks like a mirror. The texture of the fabric is fairly compact.

- Zari is the metallic yarn, made of pure silver. Originally, zari was manufactured in Yeola; Surat now being another zari-producing center. Initially the zari used in making Paithani was drawn from pure gold. Silver however, is the affordable substitute today.

- A single sari can weigh from 1.45 kg upwards, depending upon the weight of the silk and zari used. The warp is usually made in the peg or drums warping process and is tied in ball form at the back of loom.

- The warp is usually made for 2 pieces of sari and is about 11.5 meters in length.

- While coloured silk is mostly used in figure work, the solid border have extra weft figuring threads.

- The weft for borders and body being different, three shuttle weaving is adopted, two for border and one for plain body.

- The border therefore appears as separately woven and then stitched to the body of the sari. Sometimes a separate pallu warp is twisted on the body. The end piece has fine silk.

- Warp threads are only of zari forming a golden ground upon which angular, brightly coloured silk designs are woven in the interlocked weft, producing a tapestry effect.