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CRAFTS OF INDIA / PAITHANI / MATERIAL
PAITHANI
Materials used

1. Silk Yarn, 2. Zari yarn, 3. Color Dyes

Dyer Yarn Availability:

The Silk yarn though imported from Bangalore- Karnataka, is locally made available in various stores across the town.

Also a number of vendors/dealers keep in touch with the weavers for providing yarn from time to time. Also zari which is imported from Surat is made available easily in similar way through vendors and stores.

The town consists of 3 to 4 Dyers who dye the yarns according to the requirement of the weaver. Generally yarn for 10 sarees is dyed in one colour at one time.

Silk Yarn:

Filiature silk is used for warp and Cidalgatta silk is used for weft. Filiature silk is soft and fine. For warp, 18/20 denier or 20/22 denier high twist 2 ply yarns are used.

For weft 20/22 denier low twist 3 ply yarns are used. There are 3 options in quality of silk used in Paithani.

One is low quality Charaka silk which consists of broken lengths of silk yarn spun together to form a yarn. This is widely used despite being dull and uneven, since it is cheap. The medium quality silk is the Bangalore Cidalgatta silk, which is of fine quality, thin, sheer, shiny, smooth and even. The highest quality silk is the one imported from China, which is superior in quality to these, but very expensive to use.

Zari Yarn:

There are 3 types of Zari thread available.

1. Real Zari- It consists of some amount of silver in it.

2. Tested Zari- It is made in copper base.

3. Half fine Zari- It the lowest quality of zari. Three to six ply zari is used in Paithani weaving.

Using different quality yarns a difference is created in the luster, strength and cost of the saree.

Colour

Originally dark shades were used to weave the Paithani. But nowadays lighter shades are in demand.

The colour used are-

1. Pophali (yellow), 2. Neelgunji (blue), 3. Firozi (white, red and pale green blend), 4. Pasila (red, pink and green blend), 5. Udaani( faint black), 6. Guijari (black and white blend), 7. Morpankhi (green and blue blend), 8. Aboli (peach pink), 9. Sankirodak (white), 10. Mirani (black and red blend),11. Motia (pale pink), 12. Samprus ( green and red blend), 13. Vangi (purple)

Tools

1. Handloom with dobby and jacquard attachment, 2. Cycle Charkha, 3. Yarn winding machine, 4. Spindles (dhote), 5. Spools, 6. Cotton spools, 7. Reed pin, 8. Design paper, 9. Paper pins, 10. Punch cards for brocade designs

All this material is either procured with the help of artisans who are experts in making this material and is made available locally or is procured through dealers and vendors who visit and keep in touch with weavers from time to time.