Dhaka Jamdhani

Being known for its Ras Utsav and "Dolutsav" begun by one of the main associates of Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, Rashyatra, the main festival of the town, has the principal deity and his consort Radha, known as Radharaman, are taken out in a grand procession around the city accompanied with drums, kirtan and other celebratory manner.

• The Shantipur – Fulia region has over 125,000 handlooms, churning out Shantipuri, Tangail, and Jamdani handloom sarees in a variety of yarns like cotton, tussar and silk. Dhotis, dress materials, stoles and scarves are also woven.
• During the 1990s, a new trend emerged in Shantipur and Fulia. Apart from the weaving of traditional Bengal handloom sarees, new products like yardage, scarves and stoles for Export started and the weavers began to understand the tastes and preferences of foreign markets.
• A sea-change in colours and weaves came to usher in modern day trends that went down well with the market since the weaves incorporated the likes and tastes of the urban clientele.
• The positive feedback from designers and bulk buyers has wrought a change through muted colors and a variety of textures using different yarn combinations in the Shantipur and Fulia sarees. While appreciation is one heartening aspect, sales have picked up but not been extremely encouraging
.

• Shantipur, the home of skilled weavers, artisans and craftsmen since traditional times had seen a period of glory. Backed by royal patronage and spurred by their encouraging gestures, it was a handloom weaving hub famed for its feather-like touch handloom woven dhotis and sarees.
• Somewhere in the last few decades, time has not boded well for this town of skilled ethnic practitioners. Their efforts were sincere, their devotion a 100 %, but the masters of their craft, never got their due for their toil. Slowly it became a struggle for survival and even to eke out a decent livelihood seemed like a nightmare. So much so that many of the weavers and craftsmen moved out of Shantipur and searched for whatever meagre-paying job they could get just to exist on this planet.
• Those fighting for remaining true to their traditional occupation despite the odds, decided to come out of their mould and attempt something as a compromise between what they were familiar with and good at with the current market demands.
• No wonder Shantipur fabrics suddenly broke out into magenta, teal, burgundy, rust like hues with interesting modern day popular motifs instead of the wonderful jacquard themes that they were experts in.
• Some even went in for sequins and other adornments to see whether the market would respond favourably. Somehow nothing seemed to work for these desperate souls, who just shrank into a corner or moved to other means of livelihood.

• Yes indeed! In recent years there has been a spurt in the efforts of individuals, NGOs, organizations seeking a social cause and other outfits who have been interested in handlooms and recognized the immense potential of these fabrics.
• "The weavers in Shantipur have immense skill. What's lacking is the marketing of their products and keeping up with modern trends," said one of them. This self-styled entrepreneur took up with a small weaver group and designed the product that had to be woven and styled like it. The idea paid off and the item sold several times over in comparison to the amount expected by the weaver.
• This good Samaritan then contacted leading online stores and offered them lovely weaves with a mix of the traditional and trendy. They gobbled it up. This emboldened the weaver group and gave them a new confidence. They got direction about what they should weave and the colors that would suit, the designs that were current, and most importantly the thought that their life now had a meaning.
• Many instances can be given of initiatives by individuals and groups that have caught up with different varieties in handlooms and painted similar rosy outcomes for hapless idea-bereft weavers in different parts of the country.
• The Shantipur scenario has slightly brightened of late but there is still much to be done for bringing the glory back to its respectable past.

West Bengal handlooms and the Shantipur sarees have been part of the massive collection of varieties that have always been and will remain Unnati’s faith in the priceless heritage of Indian fabrics that has always done the country proud.
You have an amazing variety under one roof.
• Fine texture weaves, transparent, airy and very comfortable, the Bengal handloom cotton sari is ideal for hot climes and sultry weather.
• Comfortable, colourful and classy, the pure cotton sarees are known for their attractive borders, hand woven bootis with fancy motifs, exquisite embroidery and exotic hand painting of tribal art.
• Bengal Jamdhani saree, with eye-catching geometrical and floral patterns, having motifs hand woven in golden zari thread, based on the variations in the Jamdani weave, there are different names given to each of them.
• Kantha saree, known mainly for its running stitch embroidery on cotton fabrics. The cotton and gold thread work sets off a wonderful design that enhances the look of the fabric.
• Motifs of flowers, the sun, and modern art depictions generally adorn the Tant saree. The borders of the fabric are thicker than normal since they are prone to tearing. Tants cover a wide range from dark to subdued to light breezy hues. You have beautiful double colour stripes on pastels, light floral breeze versions that are very eye-catching and more subdued earthy hues plain and lightly adorned.
• Prominent among the silk handloom sarees of Bengal are the Baluchari and the Tangail Jamdhani. Fine count quality weaves, each has its specialty. The appeal of the Baluchari Saree lies in its colour harmony. Silk brocade designs suited to the base colour, are decorated with attractive motifs. The Pallav or Pallu is generally adorned by folk lore or mythological themes.
• One of the major themes that adorn the Pallav or Pallu of the Baluchari Sarees are mythological stories depicted on the walls of the terra cotta temples that the Malla rulers had built and are located in present day Bengal. The Malla dynasty rule had influenced motifs and the narratives from the Indian epics Mahabharata and Ramayana were obvious subjects for depictions on the thematic pallus. Today floral motifs are very popular. Many figured patterns have also been introduced.
• Baluchari Sarees are preferred as soft and comfortable wear, for their fine weave and stylish looks. Jamdhani hand weaving is a necessary accompaniment for Bengal Silk sarees where cotton and gold thread weaving create motifs of geometric patterns and floral designs in colourful hues.