Bandhani

Bandhani or Bandhni or Bandhej, is a highly-skilled process involving the Tie-Dye method, where the base fabric is first tied at several points by threads and then the threads are dyed. The manner in which the tying is done decides the resulting pattern. The tied portions by not getting dyed, show up as uncolored portions neatly patterned against the colored backdrop, when the threads are removed.

Bandhani designs could evolve as patterns of dots, strips, waves or squares. In the local language they are referred to as Leheriya, Mothra, Ekdali or Shikari. Bandhani sarees could be of cotton, silk, crepe, georgette, chiffon, satin or supernet.

Dark Colours are generally employed for dyeing the ‘Bandhini’ base so that the uncolored portions show up as light against a dark background. Principally applied colours being red, green, blue, black or yellow, the background is generally red or black. Colors used could be natural or artificial.

Just imagine works like tying of thousands of miniscule knots on a fabric that spread and form exquisite designs on opening after the dyeing process, speak volumes for the skill of the Bandhani weaver. I call them dancing dots on the sand dunes of the Kutch desert since the Khatri community of Kutch in Gujarat is known to excel in this art.

Designs and colours differ, with significance attached to certain colours. Red conveys a newly married bride, yellow for a recently become mother, are typical examples.

There is a special attraction to the Leheria Bandhej sarees in the Bandhani range known for their unique wave designs, evolving from a brilliant exercise of the tie and dye art that has created ‘waves’ in the fashion world for the simplicity and appealing look on plain coloured fabrics. Leheria work is done on silk or cotton fabric and on long and broad canvases like turbans and sarees.

The process of creating the unique Leheria saree is enrapturing.

• • Resists are tied at various spots on the cloth.
• Then the cloth is rolled diagonally from one corner to the opposite selvage.
• This rolled fabric is then dyed according to the usual tie and dye process in bright colours.
• When the fabric is unfolded after dyeing, it leaves a lot of stripes or other shapes at intervals across the fabric in a design.
• Several tie and dye processes are undergone if required, to create a myriad of colourful stripes across the fabric length. Indigo is used in the last few stages of the process.
• Leheria sarees, are a part of the Bandhini range.They are known for their unique wave designs, evolving from a brilliant exercise of the tie and dye art. The unique wave pattern has created waves in the fashion world for its simplicity and appealing look on plain coloured fabrics. From the word Leher meaning wave, comes the Leheria tie and dye process applied to white fabrics, which result in brightly coloured complex wave or Leher designs. Leheria work is done on silk or cotton fabric and on long and broad canvases like turbans and sarees.
• Mothara is a special ‘lentil design’ that is popular. It is achieved by the re-rolling of the unfolded first stage in the opposite direction and the resist tied at the diagonal end and repeating the dye process. The resulting checkered design has un-dyed areas at regular intervals which are the size of a lentil.

- Did you know that the Bandhani dates back to the Indus Valley Civilization suggesting that dyeing was done as early as 4000 B.C.? Other examples down history lane are Bandhani dots can be seen in the 6th century paintings depicting the life of Buddha found on the wall of Cave I at Ajanta. Mention of this art has been made in texts written during the reign of Alexander the Great. Historical Texts cite that the first Bandhani saree was worn at the time of Bana Bhatt`s Harshacharita in a royal marriage.

- Tie-dye can be used to create a wide variety of designs on fabric, from standard patterns such as the spiral, peace sign, diamond, and the marble effect to beautiful works of art. Using techniques such as stencils, clamped-on shaped blocks, and a special method of stitching and gathering, tie-dye can produce almost any design desired.

- A meter length of cloth can have millions of tiny knots known as "Bheendi". Four bheendis are known as a "Kadi". These knots form a design once opened after dyeing in vivid and bright colors. Different communities in Rajasthan have for ages followed the tradition of tying turbans with different patterns of bandhani on their heads. These were used to identify which community the person belonged to.

- The biggest draw is still in North and Central Gujarat where large sections of women wear Bandhani sarees, shawls or odhnis. The odhnis are also decorated with mirrors, gota and tassels to give it a richer and more decorative look.

There are very many places in India selling the Bandhani sarees today and each place having its particular locations within it, that sell different varieties of sarees including the Bandhani. But the new trend is to simply explore the internet and peruse the saree selling online websites for the Bandhani sarees.

People tend to search for to buy Gujarati or Gajji silk Bandhani sarees while online shopping. Some do shopping for the pure Bandhani silk sarees online, some others the latest Bandhani chiffon designer sarees, while others the pure Georgette Bandhani sarees online. The traditional buyers could search for Kutchi Bandhani, Jamnagar Bandhani or the typical Rajsathani Bandhani with lots of kundan work for their online purchases in shopping.

Unnati Silks has a four decade stint with handloom sarees already and Bandhani handloom sarees are a part of its vast and exclusive collection of sarees under one roof. Bandhani designer sarees are available online both wholesale and retail, at attractive prices. They are also available offline at its stores in Hyderabad.

The Unnati Silks collection of tie and dye fabrics especially in the handloom cotton range is worth exploring for the color combinations, the exquisite display of captivating patterns of Bandhani and its varied patterns.

Dot fantasies, designer pattern spreads, criss cross color bands are all part of a unique and exciting collection of Bandhani sarees for a good online purchase. You could also buy Bandhani cotton sarees today of the latest designs, Jaipuri Bandhani silk sarees when doing online shopping tomorrow or even get cheap and attractively priced Bandhani sarees online wholesale the day after.

It’s definitely a place where one can buy Bandhani cotton sarees online in sensational variety or offline at stores in Hyderabad, India.