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WEAVER'S WORLD / AURANGABAD / TEXTILES - 4
AURANGABAD
The types of Paithani

Based on market taste and popularity, has come a classification of sorts based on motifs, weaving style and the color of the Paithani saree.

Motif

• Bangadi Mor: The word bangadi means bangle and mor means peacock. So bangadi mor means a peacock in a bangle or in a bangle shape. The motif is woven onto the pallu, the design sometimes having a single dancing peacock. The saris using this motif are very expensive because of the design.

• Munia brocade: Munia means parrot. Parrots are woven on the pallu as well as in border. Parrots are always in leaf green colour. The parrots in silk are also called tota-maina.

• Lotus brocade: lotus motifs are used in pallu and sometimes on the border. The lotus motif consists of 7-8 colours.

Weaving style

• Kadiyal border sari: Kadiyal means interlocking. The warp and the weft of the border are of the same colour while the body has different colours for warp and weft.

• Kad/Ekdhoti: A single shuttle is used for weaving of weft. The colour of the warp yarn is different from that of the weft yarn. It has a narali border and simple buttis like paisa, watana, etc. Kad is also a form of lungi and is used by male Maharashtrians.

Colour

• Kalichandrakala: pure black sari with red border.

• Raghu: parrot green coloured sari.

• Shirodak: pure white sari.